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Tales from Austria

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By Elizabeth Kiessling

University of the Pacific, McGeorge School of Law

 

I spent July 2008 studying in Salzburg, Austria, at the University of Salzburg. The program is part of the University of the Pacific, McGeorge School of Law Summer Abroad program, which has been in existence since 1975. I studied comparative law in my “Fundamental Human Rights in Europe and the United States” course, which was taught jointly by Supreme Court Justice Anthony Kennedy and Professor Sionaidh Douglas-Scott, who teaches European Law at King’s College in London.

The experience was absolutely once in a lifetime. I spent my mornings in class, learning of and comparing the differences in the approach to human rights between the United States and Europe. I knew we had different approaches to law, but I didn’t realize the extent of some of these differences (approach to the death penalty, hate speech, etc.) – or the existence of so many similarities. Both professors were wonderful. I was intimidated by Justice Kennedy at first, but he made us all feel at ease with his humor and humbleness. It was amazing to read a case for class and then discuss it with the Justice who had actually written the majority opinion! Professor Douglas-Scott is an expert on European human rights and was it was fascinating to study European cases and law.

Additionally, it was beneficial to have a mix of American and international students in the class, as we were able to compare our legal systems and debate certain contested issues. Two of the biggest topics were the upcoming 2008 Presidential election and the recently defeated Lisbon Treaty. The American students were particularly interested in the creation and defeat of the Lisbon Treaty, and the students from non-American schools had strong opinions on the upcoming election.

I only took one class during my program, but there were many offered, including “International Dispute Resolution,” “Foreign Relations Law,” and “Law and Literature,” which was co-taught by Justice Kennedy and McGeorge professor Michael Malloy. The class examined all types of literature that involved law and culminated with a student performance of Antigone, which was a big hit.

I stayed at a hotel rented for course participants, as did nearly all other students. The building was a ten minute walk from campus, and the walk was pleasant, taking us through the winding streets of Salzburg and past its many churches and local restaurants. We walked over every day after enjoying a European breakfast buffet, which confused many students who could not reconcile the idea of cold cuts at breakfast!

My class ran Monday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 11 a.m. and consisted of both lecture and class discussion of cases and rules.  The reading load was much heavier than a normal semester long class, but the cases were generally interesting, which made the reading a bit more bearable!

One of the main reasons I decided to study abroad was the opportunity to explore an area of the world with which I was unfamiliar. After class ended, my classmates and I spent the rest of the day and the weekends sightseeing. Salzburg is a gorgeous town and has a lot to offer travelers, from the home of Mozart to the imposing Salzburg Fortress to the salt mines that give the town its name to the churches and hills that can be seen in “The Sound of Music.”

I was fortunate enough to have a friend who is a Salzburg resident.  He and his family were incredibly gracious, and treated us to homemade Austrian dinners and took us on tours of Salzburg and the surrounding sites, such as Hellbrunn Palace. Hellbrunn was built in 1610 by Prince Archbishop Sittikus and is famous for its trick fountains. The fountains all look like normal decorative fountains, but shoot water all over unsuspecting tourists – to the perhaps all-too-noticeable pleasure of the tour guide and locals! It was certainly a great way to cool off after a long day of sightseeing.

One thing I found interesting was that very few Austrians have actually seen “The Sound of Music,” which is probably Salzburg’s greatest claim to fame (at least with American tourists). The city is bursting with souvenirs commemorating the film, and many of the hotels play the film on a 24 hour a day loop. There is a full day tour tourists can take which visits all the famous sites in the film, from the gazebo to the marriage church to the graveyard where the Von Trapps hid from the Nazis. And yet, Austrians are thoroughly unimpressed with the classic film. I asked my friend from Salzburg to explain this to me, and he reasoned it is because the film has brought a class of tourists to the area that are perpetually singing “Do Re Mi” while skipping through the streets. Additionally, my friend said the film is historically and geographically inaccurate. It was so interesting to hear a different point of view on a film I assumed was universally beloved.

During the weekdays I spent my free time sightseeing in and around Salzburg, but once the weekend arrived, I, and most of my classmates seized the opportunity to travel outside the city. It was very easy to travel to neighboring cities and nations thanks to the nearby train station.  One of my favorite things about Europe is the public transportation system. It makes it so easy to get around when you have no access to a vehicle. During my stay, I was able to get to Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest, Vienna, Munich, Venice, and Rome, while my classmates visited places ranging from London to Paris to Budapest.

Hitler’s Eagle’s Nest is only about a thirty minute drive from Salzburg, and provides amazing views of the mountains from nearly 2000 meters above sea level. McGeorge School of Law organized a weekend trip to Vienna, which included tours of the famous Hapsburg palace, Schenbrunn and the Opera. My classmates and I were sure to take time to sample Vienna’s famous Sacher Torte, a delicious chocolate cake renowned around the world. It was the richest cake I’ve ever tasted.

After spending a day in Munich, I traveled thirty minutes by train to Dachau Concentration Camp, which was the first Nazi concentration camp. I spent several hours at the memorial site, which has a wonderful exhibit and provides a look at the grounds and bunkers prisoners were forced to live in. This half-day trip was incredibly sobering and heartbreaking – it’s one thing to read about the Holocaust and its concentration camps in school, but quite another to find yourself standing in the same places that the victims did.

A friend and I took a long weekend to do a whirlwind tour of Rome and Venice, which was a blast. We left Salzburg at 9 p.m. Thursday night and got to Rome around 9 a.m. Friday morning. We somehow managed to get to the Coliseum, the Roman Forum, the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, and the Spanish Steps in one day, despite the blistering heat. Additionally, we spent a half-day at the Vatican, admiring St. Peter’s Basilica and Square along with the gorgeous Sistine Chapel. We also made time for several Roman pizzas, which were wonderfully fresh and delicious – I can certainly understand why Italians are so proud of their pizza!

On Saturday afternoon we boarded the train for Venice, and arrived in the early evening. We had just enough time to hop on a water taxi, grab some gelato and see Piazza San Marco before the sun set. A local told us that we happened to be in Venice on the day of the biggest fireworks festival of the year – the Redentore Festival, which remembers the end of the Black Plague in Venice in 1576. The fireworks show started around midnight and was spectacular. It lasted well over an hour and reminded me of a big Fourth of July celebration. Absolutely worth the twenty-three total hours we spent on the train from Salzburg to Rome to Venice and back again!

One thing that really stands out in my mind about Europe is the amount of time people spend together. Meals are not rushed, but are seen as an opportunity to relax and catch up with friends and family.  When I went to my friend’s house for a traditional Austrian dinner, we sat and talked for hours, about everything from school to our families to the upcoming 2008 Presidential election (again, everyone seems to have an opinion on this in Europe!). This was something different for me, as I am used to the super fast service in American restaurants and family dinners hurried by an unending list of things to do.  It took me a while to get used to this difference, but I really started to enjoy the relaxed environment as the summer progressed. It’s something I’ve taken back to California with me and hope to remember for years to come.

All in all, my trip was amazing, exciting, eye-opening, and all the other things I thought it would be. During the summer before my second year of law school I got to spend a month touring Europe, meeting new friends, and learning from a Supreme Court Justice. I’d absolutely recommend it anyone in the mood for new experiences and new places.

 

 

 

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